Inspired by Pantone's 2018 Color of the Year, this soft lilac eyeshadow combines shimmering cosmetic micas to create a luminous wash of violet that's beautiful on its own or layered with deeper shades.
One of my favorite things about making eyeshadow from scratch is how easily you can customize the color, finish, and intensity. By adjusting the ratio of cosmetic pigments, you can create a shade that's uniquely your own.
You will need the Ultimate Pressed Eyeshadow Powder Base that I made. You can find the tutorial for that recipe
HERE. If you don't have my formula, there is a great pre-made pressing base sold by TKB Trading that you can find
HERE.
When working with loose cosmetic powders, wear a properly fitted dust mask or respirator to avoid inhaling fine particles. You will need 0.5 grams of Ultimate Pressed Eyeshadow Base or TKB Pressing Base. My tutorial can be found
HERE.
You need 0.25 grams TKB Pearl Violet mineral pigment. Find it
HERE.
You need 0.80 grams of TKB Indigo Shift mineral pigment. Find it
HERE.
You also need 0.20 grams of TKB Pearl White mineral pigment. Find it
HERE.
Place all three pigments and the pressing base into a small plastic baggie. Seal up the bag and massage it gently to evenly blend the powders.
Mica powders are very easy to blend into the base.
Pour the blended powders into a small mixing container.
The blended powder is a very soft and shimmery lilac color.
You will need 30 drops (1 ml) of 190 Proof grain alcohol and 30 drops (1 ml) of Squalane Olive Oil. You can substitute 91% rubbing alcohol if you need too. You can also substitute clear jojoba oil in place of the squalane olive oil.
I used small pipettes for the oil and vodka. I also used the TKB mini eyeshadow tin and compact and the pressing gadget (looks like a fancy cabinet pull). You can find all of these items
HERE.
Add the alcohol and oil, drop by drop, over the top of the powder. Mix the powder until it resembles moist sand. If the mixture is too dry, it won't press well. Too wet, and it may crack or develop hard spots. A texture similar to damp beach sand is usually just right.
This appearance means it is the perfect consistency to press.
Using about half of the mixture, fill the eyeshadow pan and smooth out.
Place a piece of ribbon or paper towel over the eyeshadow pan.
Place the pressing disc over the ribbon.
Place the tamping tool over the pressing disc and apply even pressure with your hand to press the powder firmly into the pan.
Your eyeshadow will look like this. Notice the texture from the ribbon.
Add the remainder of the powder into the metal pan. Place the ribbon back on top, place the clear disc over the ribbon and place the tamping tool over the disc. Press again with firm and even pressure.
You should have a nicely packed eyeshadow that is ready to be placed into the compact.
You can apply a few drops of glue to the bottom of the compact and place the shadow pan in to secure it.
Here it swatched on my arm in natural light.
Because this pressed eyeshadow contains moisture during formulation, it's important to think carefully about preservation and good manufacturing practices. Preservation recommendations evolve over time, so always follow the current usage guidelines provided by your preservative supplier and choose a broad-spectrum system appropriate for your formulation.
Choose a preservative you are comfortable using and follow the recommended useage amounts and guidelines. Non-preserved eyeshadow can grow mold and fungus and you don't want that anywhere near your precious eyes.
Cheers!
Shannon Buck
