Tuesday, October 2, 2018

Color Correcting and Highlighting Concealer


Making foundations and concealers are super fun! You can custom match the formulas for your skin type and skin color! Follow along for my formula for Color Correcting and Highlighting Concealer.

You need 3.5 grams of fractionated coconut oil (also known as FCO).

You need 1 gram of vegetable glycerine. I like to shop at Mountain Rose Herbs for this ingredient! Shop HERE.

You need 0.3 grams of refined shea butter.

You need 0.8 grams of cetyl alcohol. You can find this at Lotion Crafter HERE.

You need 0.2 grams of sunflower wax. You can find it at TKB Trading HERE.

Add the above listed ingredients into a small glass beaker and place it in a few inches of simmering water to melt all the thickeners into the oils.

Takes about 4 minutes to fully melt.

I like to use white, yellow and chocolate brown liquid pigments for my colorants. These are basically iron oxides dispersed into castor oil.  The tricky part is to go drop by drop until you match your skin color. I like to formulate this base color just a shade darker because I will be adding in more ingredients that will lighten it to my perfect shade.  If you have darker skin, the addition of black liquid pigment is helpful to achieve the perfect match.  Start slow and work your way up.

I started with 1.5 grams of white pigments, 0.02 grams of brown pigment and 0.08 grams of yellow pigment.

Now you need to mix the pigments together.

A little too light for me, so I need to add a few more drops of brown and yellow.

Stir until smooth and blended and check the color. It should be just a shade or two darker than your skin.

Perfect! I am ready to add this base into my liquid wax/oil mixture.

Stir well to combine.

I like to add in some TKB Trading Hilite Blue mica/titanium dioxide and iron oxide blend to give my concealer some light diffusing action and the blue helps to cancel out my redness.  Just 0.03 grams was perfect for my blend.

You also need 1.2 grams of white sericite mica powder.  Add it into the melted concealer and mix well to disperse throughout.

I use the 10 ml dispensing tubes from Lotion Crafter. These are perfect for squeezing out the perfect amount of concealer.

Add the hot concealer into the dispensing tube and allow to cool to room temp.

Here I am without a stitch of make up on.

I decided to use the concealer pretty much all over my face and really focused on my under eyes and my pores. I have nothing else on except the concealer. It is not heavy or greasy. It does not feel sticky at all.  I would like to finish it off with some setting powder to help keep it in place all day. It really works wonders and makes my redness less noticeable. I am very very pleased with the coverage. I feel it is a medium coverage that you can build up with a second layer.

Cheers!